Frosty morning at a wayside camp in NE Turkey
Image: Mukti Mitchell

The Joy of Going Slow – Greece to Turkey

To travel to India by land I had waited 15 years. My journey by bicycle from the UK to Greece in September 2024, is covered in my last travelogue. After four months of cycling across Europe, I had the great city of Istanbul in my sights.

Arriving on the Turkish Island of Bozcaada
Image: Mukti Mitchell

To reach Istanbul from Athens I took the ferry to Lesbos and Ayvalik in Turkey, where I stayed with an inspiring dancer, Aydin Teker. From there I cycled up the coast, but fell off my bike on Christmas Day, trying to adjust my helmet strap with no hands. Luckily it was on a quiet sea promenade and after cleaning up my grazes I checked in to an Airbnb nearby and found the landlady was a nurse! Her Guesthouse made for a happy Christmas with huge sea views and an open fire, and they were elated when I cooked them an Indian meal.

The beach from where the Greeks sailed to besiege Troy
Image: Mukti Mitchell

On the Island of Bozcaada I rested deeply for three weeks, earning my keep by pickling olives. My daily walk was on the beach from which the Greek army took the Trojan Horse to rescue Helen from nearby Troy. It was here in the Dardanelles Straits that Turkish Commander Kemal Atatürk defeated Britain, France & Russia at Gallipoli in WW1. He never suffered a defeat in battle and went on to found the republic of Turkey in 1923 after the end of the Ottoman Empire. Atatürk modernised Turkey, adopted the European alphabet, established a democratic secular government and gave women the vote long before most of the world. He is widely loved to this day with photos and statues in parks, homes and restaurants across the nation.

The maritime city of Istanbul by night
Image: Mukti Mitchell

It was five cycling days to Istanbul, with frosty nights, hot days, and roads so muddy they proved my road bike unfit for Asia. The fast ferry sped me across the Sea of Marmara and I arrived by water in the ancient maritime city.

Istanbul’s endless markets
Image: Mukti Mitchell

From the moment I arrived I knew I would love Istanbul. The biggest city in Europe with the world’s busiest ferry network, previously named Byzantium and Constantinople, it was the capital of four empires over 3,000 years and the only capital to bridge two continents. The food is fantastic and the markets endless. Here I met folks from across the globe – Russia, Ukraine, Iran, Iraq, China, Kazakhstan, Algeria and every European nation – the richest cultural mix I’d ever known. Istanbul’s citizens seemed undisturbedly relaxed in every setting, whether heavy traffic, busy ferries, teeming streets or packed markets. Cool and fashionable, they sip coffee in countless cafes where the decor is often like a work of art.

With the bike builder and new bike
Image: Mukti Mitchell

Thanks to friends old and new I soon found a room to rent, a library to work and a yoga school to exercise. A bike-builder called Filispit took my road bike and built from used parts a touring bike fit for the Pamir Highway. A shoemaker called FanFinFon crafted me boots for snowy mountains and a bag-maker called Cantacimiz stitched a bag to load my bike on train and bus. And friends at Albura Kathisma and Soju restaurants fed me delicacies ancient and new. The city captured my heart and six weeks later it was hard to leave.

Farewell to friends at Soju Restaurant
Image: Mukti Mitchell

My experiences are shaped by the choice to travel by land and avoid the 4.5 tonnes of CO2 that would be emitted by a return economy flight to India (14 tonnes business class). I notice that I can feel the charm and magic of little backstreet shops and markets when I feel safe and relaxed. And I feel safe and relaxed thanks to slow travel, which gives me time to adjust. I also avoid hassle from tourist-trappers who congregate at flight arrival spots. This leads to a more authentic experience of a place. Two websites that helped a lot are https://www.seat61.com for global trains and https://caravanistan.com for everything in Central Asia.

View from the Dogu Express
Image: Mukti Mitchell

So now I set off into Asia. My 90-day visa is nearly up so I’ll cross Turkey on the famous Dogu Express, with space for just one bicycle! The train will take me to snowy Kars, and from there I’ll cycle into Georgia. But first to Konya, the home of Rumi, to visit his tomb. By amazing luck, the same evening there is a ceremony of the Sufi order of whirling dervishes founded by Rumi 800 years ago! Their song and dance is so gentle and loving it calls to my heart and brings a tear to my eye. The experience touches me deeply. The Dervishes pursue connection with the divine through ecstatic music and dance, and as I listen I realise that that is what I am trying to do with my life.

Inspired to do a land trip? Watch this space for Mukti’s upcoming travelogues, explore your own footprint with our world class carbon calculators, or browse more blogs on our website – your guide to high quality of life with a low footprint.

Wishing you cosy winter travel planning,

Mukti and the Carbon Savvy Team